RESTAURANT

L’Autruche

ARLES

5 Rue Dulau
13200 Arles
04 90 49 73 63
PRICE RANGE – LUNCH MODERATE, DINNER EXPENSIVE

Taking over this small restaurant in 2006, young couple Ouria Zarouri and Fabien Maillis have given Arles a smart eatery tucked into a quiet side street just off the Rue de la République. L’Autruche (the Ostrich) is the kind of place that every town needs – central, reasonably stylish, reasonably priced and serving delicious food.

The décor sets the tone with cool grey walls, simple metal chairs and scuffed wooden tables, each with a tiny pot of fresh flowers. The success of the enterprise hinges, however, on a talented young chef. Antoine Soupizet worked for the almost frighteningly famous Michelin 3-star L’Oustau de la Baumanière for four years before coming here. ‘I like small restaurants,’ he says. He still can’t be much older than 30.

As dinner is à la carte only (working out at €70-80 per head), lunch offers the best value with a cracking two-course menu currently at €17, dessert counting as an optional extra. A recent midday visit began with the inspired arrangement of scallops, endives and orange that you see above, continuing with a hearty yet elegant dish of sage-infused rabbit, buttered cabbage and roast parsnips. Fresh market produce, all of it, in well-judged and flavourful combinations. Pudding was a killer chocolate and caramelised pineapple tart.

A hand-picked selection of about 30 wines, many from estates featured on this site, adds to the carefully orchestrated pleasure of the place. This ostrich definitely doesn’t bury its head in the sand.